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Land-Use Verification
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Septic Rule
Permit Procedure.pdf
New Site Septic App
Repair Application
Pre-Req. for Septic Permit
Site Plan Specifications.pdf
Acceptable Pipe
Construction Guidelines
Approved Tanks
System Abandonment
Civil Engineers.pdf
General Soils Map
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On-Site Septic Systems
 
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How often should my tank be pumped? Is there a difference
between pumping and cleaning?
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Do I really need to protect the area where the septic system
will be before constructing my home, as well as after installation?
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How can I prevent system failure?
- How
long will my system last?
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If I have a problem, what repairs can be done and who should
do them?
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Will trees and tree roots affect my system?
 1. How often should my tank be pumped? Is there a difference
between pumping and cleaning?
As a rule, tanks should be checked for solids buildup every year and pumped
every three years to five years, more often if you have a garbage disposal. It
is best not to wait until the plumbing system begins to back up in your home. if
solids overflow from the tank, some very expensive damage can be done to the
soil absorption system.
In practice, however, how often solids should be removed depends on the
lifestyle of the family using the system and the size of the tank. For example,
a garbage disposal can result in a rapid buildup of solids. Many homeowners have
installed risers with child-proof caps on their tanks to simplify solids removal
and routinely have their tanks cleaned every three to five years. Risers are
becoming more common because septic tank maintenance companies usually charge
less if the tank is convenient to access
When choosing a company to remove solids from your tank, ask if they thoroughly
clean the tank and remove all solids. It is not very useful to just pump the
liquids without removing the solids from the tank. Reputable companies flush
removed liquids back into the tank to thoroughly agitate and remove settled
solids. In addition, they check the baffles on the tank to make sure they are
functional and clean the tank's effluent filter (if installed).
If your tank has an effluent filter installed, inspect it via the riser every
6-12 months for fouling. If buildup on the filter becomes substantial, have the
tank cleaned. A properly functioning tank effluent filter protects the soil
absorption field much more effectively than a baffle. If your tank does not
currently have one, consider installing one the next time you have your tank
cleaned.
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2. Do I really need to protect the area where the septic
system will be before constructing my home, as well as after installation?
Soil is the most expensive and important part of the septic system. As such, a
homeowner should protect the soil absorption field before and after
installation.
All Indiana septic systems must discharge into the soil. For soils to be
suitable for a septic system soil absorption field, they must not be compacted.
Compaction reduces the ability of a soil to disperse and treat wastewater
effluent and can lead to system failure, and a costly repair. The more natural
and undisturbed the soil on your lot, the better your septic system is likely to
perform. Do not put any structure on top of or 50 feet downslope of the soil
absorption field either. It is also a good idea to maintain another area on the
lot for another soil absorption field in case the system fails.
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3.
How can I prevent system failure?
If the system has been properly sited, designed and installed, the rest is up to
you, the homeowner to see to the maintenance.
In addition to routinely having solids removed from the septic tank, the soil
absorption system can be damaged by excess water wastage in the home, exceeding
the soil's ability to absorb it. Either situation can result in long-term damage
to the system.
Homeowners with septic systems must also be more careful about what they flush
down the drain than their urban neighbors. Never pour substances such as motor
oil, gasoline, paints, thinners, or pesticides down the drain. These materials
pollute the groundwater and are often toxic to the organisms in your tank and
soil that breakdown your wastewater. Likewise, fats, grease, coffee grounds,
paper towels, sanitary napkins, disposable diapers, and other such items can
clog your septic system. Moderate use of household cleaners, disinfectants,
detergents, or bleaches do little harm to the system, but avoid excess use.
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4. How
long will my system last?
Many septic systems in Indiana last 20 years or more. On the other hand, if the
system is not properly sited, designed, installed and maintained, it may have a
life of only a few months or years, and be very difficult and expensive to
repair or replace. Septic system failure can also result in a public health and
water quality threat. Consequently, there are regulations in place at both the
county and state level in Indiana that are intended to minimize septic system
failures.
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5. If I have a problem, what repairs can be done and who
should do them?
If you have a septic system problem, you should immediately contact the county
health department. They should have a
list of professionals who
work in your county. Some counties in Indiana require installers to be certified
by the county Health office. You can also check the
Indiana Onsite Wastewater
Professionals Association . This organization lists the contact information
of professionals throughout the state.
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6. Will trees and
tree roots affect my system?
Roots from trees and shrubs can invade and plug sewer lines. Wastewater effluent
is full of plant nutrients including nitrogen and phosphorus. Roots are
attracted to leaking septic tanks and to absorption fields to obtain these
nutrients. Roots can seriously damage septic tanks and distribution pipes
resulting in significant repair costs.
If you do have trees near your soil absorption field, they should be as far away
as possible from the entry point of effluent to the drain field. Trees should be
planted at least as far away as their estimated root spread at maturity. One way
to estimate this is by the ultimate height of the mature tree. For example, a
weeping cherry may be expected to grow about 25 feet tall, and should be planted
a minimum of 25 feet away from the drain field. A mature oak might need to be 60
or 70 feet away.
While trees do remove a significant amount of water from the area, avoid
planting water-loving trees such as willow and poplar near the soil absorption
field. If you are willing to risk some root intrusion, non-aggressive species
can be placed near to the drain field (although closer than 10 feet is not
recommended). Although the root spread of non-aggressive species trees may
eventually encompass a portion of the drain field, the roots are not likely to
cause serious damage to the distribution lines because the
lines are surrounded by gravel. Still, the potential for damage to the system
exists.
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* Adapted from a Purdue publication.
For more information, contact Randy Pease at (317) 346-4371
or rpease@co.johnson.in.us
Revised: 03/19/10.
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